Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Sorry for the short update yesterday. I'm sure those waiting to hear from me were disappointed with the sparse info, but it's difficult for me to get used to using the internet in a public place. The truth is that so much has happened and it's very difficult not only to remember it, but just to revisit the past. I'm living so much in the moment right now that looking ahead is very hard, and looking back is impossible. I feel so much like I'm living someone else's life that my old life seems so distant and vague. I also realize that speaking or writing in English feels clumsy. I haven't been here for that long but I speak and hear Russian all day and reverting back to English is more difficult than I thought. Not difficult to speak but difficult to speak well, or articulate. 

Where do I start? I'd prefer not to do this chronologically because that's too daunting a task. Instead I think I'll go by category.

Town: Vladimir is a really nice size for a city. I haven't been to Moscow or St. Petersburg so I can't compare, but I'm sure it feels much smaller. Everyone so far has said that it won't take long to get to know the city pretty well, but at the same time I still feel like there's plenty to discover. It has the necessities. I can't speak for the people because I haven't met most of them. I can't say they're nice because on the street, in general, Russians never smile at or acknowledge strangers and I haven't been in stores much. Honestly I'm a little intimidated but I think that's just something I'll get used to, and it's been improving very slowly. I live right behind the Vladimir Pedagogical University. I don't live very close to anyone else from the program, but not very far either. Some students were lucky enough to live literally next door to each other, but all the students are scattered throughout the city. Some live in the center near school, some live far away in a section of town called Dobriy, but I live a reasonable distance from the center. ("Center" is actually a term directly translated from the Russian term "tsentr". I suppose a more accurate English equivalent is "downtown" but by habit I still say "center".) It takes me 50 minutes to walk to school in the morning, which I prefer to do. There's a park right next to my apartment, but it really resembles a small forest. I love how the trees here appear black against the white snow, so to me it's a beautiful view. I'm not sure exactly how long it would be by bus, but shorter. I walk to school in the morning and I guess usually take the bus in the evening since it gets dark early and we're not really supposed to walk around by ourselves, or at all, after dark. All the stores, or the ones that are useful to me so far, are in the center near school. Today after school I went with some friends to buy Russian SIM cards for our phones. And I'm at Coffee Bean again. So while there's a grocery store near my apartment, it's probably easier to just run errands right after school in the center and then return home for dinner. In the center of town is a landmark called the Golden Gates, or Zolotye Vorota. It's the most popular meeting place. I'm not sure what else to say about the town, comment if you have questions. Here's a website with some general info.

Home life: I live with a 49 year old named Alla. She's very sweet but also more laidback than it sounds like some of the other students' host moms are. We spent a lot of time together this weekend because she had to show me the ropes and everything, but this week I've had more space. She works and I go to school, so we really only spend quality time together over dinner. She wakes me up in the morning before leaving for work, leaving breakfast ready on the table. She usually gets home around 5:30 I think, but so far every day I've gotten home after her. When I get home, she prepares dinner and we usually talk. Yesterday was a triumph for me because our conversation was very fluid. I was disheartened to realize when I met her how limited I was by my language ability. All our conversations seemed awkward, there were just too many words I didn't understand and I couldn't seem to express myself at all. But things are improving, and it's really fun to see that, especially in so short a time. After dinner I say I'm tired (because by this time I really am exhausted) and I go to my room and do homework. I fall asleep  soon after. I don't know if it's jet lag or because talking in Russian non-stop all day is so incredibly tiring, but I get SO tired at around 6. The latest I've stayed up was till 9 I think, and even that is hard for me. I usually wake up around 6 in the morning, but I don't have to get up until around 7. But the schedule works for me. I don't know what I'd do with a lot of free time, at least not yet. Anyway, the biggest inside joke amongst all the students here is how much food our host moms push on us. Probably the first new word we learned upon arrival was "kushai kushai kushai!" which means "eat!" Everyone complains daily about how much food they're forced to eat, or how unhealthy the food is. Along with "how did you sleep?" and "how are you?", "what did you have for dinner" has become a daily question. Sympathizing with each other over this form of hospitality has brought us all closer together. We all laugh about it, it's a definite part of the culture here. Alla has been pretty good with me though. She doesn't give me too much of each individual serving, but she gives me too many varieties of food. For example, breakfast may consist of an omelette, meat, yogurt, tea, bread and candy. But I'm set with just the omelette and tea. And if I don't take any food, I feel rude, but at the same time, I can't eat it all. So today I carried the bread with me to school in my backpack, and later fed it to one of the many stray dogs on the street. Generally speaking, though, when I say I'm full, Alla lets me be. But she insists that I try everything. Food is definitely different here. Salad is different. And Alla tried to give me mayonnaise with my salad, which I refused, but inevitably was forced to try. It's actually different from the mayo in America, but still not terribly appetizing. Alla was also shocked when I said I don't put any sugar in my tea. She's never made me try it, but she still leaves sugar on the breakfast table every morning. The food situation is one of those things which we all complain about, but while laughing. It's definitely a very endearing part of the culture. And the food is of course very good in an ethnic kind of way, aside from the fact that it's often soaked in butter and other sauces. One day I couldn't finish breakfast just because everything was so heavy. But ultimately, the food is of good quality, and it's really nice to get a home cooked meal at the end and beginning of every day.

Alla's husband and both of her sons are in the military. Her husband died a little over a year ago, though I don't know how. I do know he was in the army. Her oldest son is an officer, and her youngest is studying to become one. She also said her father and grandfather are in the army, which is something I find terribly interesting about her. I assume she must be very nationalistic as a result, but we haven't talked much politics. I tried one day but it was a mistake. It was a mistake because I realized very quickly I lacked the capacity to understand her and express myself, which is a very bad thing when discussing politics. When we started talking about Obama, I don't know, I thought it seemed as if she's racist, but that's not the kind of thing I want to assume about anyone and I don't really know what she was saying for sure. And even if it's true about her, which it very well could be, that's not something I'm prepared to know yet. Even if she is, it doesn't matter, it's a culture thing and I know that Alla is a wonderful person in every other way. She knows I'm Jewish, I made sure to tell her early on, and she's obviously fine with it. She did ask me some questions, though, which I found funny, about if my parents would be okay with me marrying a non-Jewish Russian, and also an African-American. I said as long as we loved each other, they'd be happy. Alla has a great smile, cooks well, wraps her arm around mine when we walk places together, brushes dust off my coat, makes sure I'm always dressed warmly enough before leaving the house, and forces me to eat to her satisfaction. Overall, she takes good care of me while giving me space, and I think anyone would say that she's doing a great job.

School: I still haven't finished my first week of school, or had all my classes, but I still have the general gist of school by now. We've been split into four groups, and I'm in a group with three other people, a group that includes my two roommates from orientation. This is great because I have a special affection for them, due to all the pillow talk and whatnot. My courses are phonetics, grammar, conversation practice, mass media, history and some kind of reading class I think. So far my professors are great. Very sweet ladies plus a soft-spoken man. They're all very patient and helpful, and manage to teach the whole class in Russian in a way that we can all understand. I've been learning A LOT, and it all sticks better than at normal Russian classes at home because for once the information is extremely practical for our lifestyles. I NEED to remember the words and sentence structures, my well-being depends on it. Though I have to say, after a full day at school, my brain is absolutely exhausted because it takes so much energy to concentrate on the speech. But overall class is fun, creative and challenging, I really like the girls in my group, and it's great to have such a small class. 

Students: I think there are 13 other students here with ACTR this semester. I like all of them. I don't want to talk about specific students, even to say nice things, because this is a public website and it weirds me out to talk about people in any capacity when they could be reading. But I'm very happy with the students here. There's different personalities but we all get along, everyone's nice. The students who are here for their second semester are great. I look up to them as older siblings or as seniors to our freshmen. They've already helped me a lot because they just know everything that you want to know, and they've been through it. The other day a few of them decided to escort me home, completely out of their way, and besides being helpful, it also just made me feel good to have someone watching over me like that. 

Tutors: We all are assigned a tutor that we have to meet with every week for 2 hours. All the tutors are Russians, or Russian speakers, who live here in Vladimir and are around our age. Other students. We hang out with them, make them run errands with us that may be difficult, go to see a movie, etc. We met with the group of tutors on Sunday and got to choose the one we wanted. I ended up sitting next to a girl named Kamila from a small town in northern Russia near Arkhangelsk. Her father is from Azerbaijan and her mother is Tatar. As a result, she doesn't look like an ethnic Russian and I guess that's what attracted me to her initially. After the meeting, I got to walk around with her and her friend, Lilit, who is Armenian, and we talked about racism in America and Russia (in English). Lilit absolutely loves America, and she traveled around for awhile. Since Kamila doesn't go to movies in the theater, Lilit said she'd go with me. That's definitely something I'd want to do. The tutors speak perfect English and, although we're not allowed to speak in English when we hang out, it's very comforting for me to know that they do and I can resort to that if I need to.

There's more to say, I guess, including a few specific stories that are really great, but I'm really tired now and want to go home. Chances are I'll be back again tomorrow but, if not, I'll update again soon. In short: everything's great here. There's nothing to complain about. I'm still adjusting to life here, though. Life in general is definitely more challenging, but that's not a bad thing. 

2 comments:

  1. Where do I start? I think I'll go by category.

    Town: Thanks for integrating the website for everyone! I checked out some of the photos and I have to admit that I'm very jealous of you! Vladimir seems very nice! The architecture is stunning. Let me know if the cathedrals are as beautiful on the inside! Here's a youtube video tour for everyone who isn't there: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoFGDKs2b4 I hope you send me postcards! :)

    Home life: That's so nice that she cooks for you! Butter is the key ingredient to happiness (I learned that by watching Last Holiday starring *Queen Latifah*). If Alla is stuffing you like a turkey, just say CHOOT-CHOOT! (just a little, please). Sugar with tea is nice. What kind of tea do they drink there? I'm glad you're getting breakfast and dinner, but what do you do for lunch? Hmm..so she asked you about marrying a non-Jewish Russian...son # 1 or # 2?...lol, just kidding! Does Alla speak any English at all?

    School: Based on your post, I am assuming that you have class from roughly 9 am to 4 pm. Is that correct? Maybe next post you could do a timeline so that we can experience a day in the life of Laurie in Russia (i.e. 6 am: woke up and had tea with sugar). That's nice that your classes are so small and that you have them with your orientation roommates. You'll be fluent in Russian by the time you come back.

    Students: I think it's funny that you don't want to share information about your study abroad peers. You don't need to describe them in detail, but I think that it will be easier for us to follow along if you at least mention their names. I respect whatever decisions you make though. I'm glad that you get along with them.

    Tutors: That's really interesting that Kamila is half Tatar. I'm glad that she and Lilit speak English; they'll be able to serve you as translators when need be. I hope you enjoy your first tutoring session this Sunday! Let us know what you'll be doing.

    Laurie, it sounds like you're doing great! When you come back to Maryland, I'm sure you'll be pouring mayonnaise into your salads.
    Take care!

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  2. Laurie, what a fabulous job you have done capturing your experiences and thoughts for those of us left back in the states! Thanks for taking the time to organize and write to such great detail. How wonderful that your conversations with Alla have improved so quickly, that you are in a school group with your Dulles roommates, that the tutors speak Engish and that the teachers make the class so easily understandable and comfortable. I so much admire the way you take your challenges in stride; accept them for what they are and dont allow them to get in your way. Thankyou so much for this wonderfully detailed post. You have me smiling in admiration and wonderment. I love you!

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